My dream vacation became a reality this June when I spent a month in Italy. The highlights are depicted below and you can read my column Basil at Its Best, below, for more details.
We stayed at the lovely Sognando Villa Edera in Rapallo Italy where the owners Mario and Rosanna treated us like family. They are part of the Italian agri-tourism movement. The photos are of Mario with his delicious Formaggio Pizza and Rosanna preparing pesto gnocci. We enjoyed scrumptious authentic Italian evening meals and delicious complimentary breakfasts.
We visited the Parco del Basilico. Photos are of our guide Davide Canazza and their office supervisor. We had a delicious lunch at L’OSTERIA dell ACQUASANTA a member of the Park's restaurant network.
We visited a Ligurian basil farmer who is a member of the Parco del Basilico's network of local basil producers.
We visited a pesto manufacturer where we sampled freshly made pesto, bread, cheese, and wine. Wonderfully hospitable people! Photos are of the Pesto maker and me signaling its perfection! He is a member of the Park's network of local manufacturers.
We took a cooking class with Chef Fausto Oneto. Dinner is included with this fabulous class! Here I make bread with Fausto and we all enjoy the fruits of our labors at his great restaurant "UGIANCU".
All of Our Italian Pictures Were Taken by Marilyn Ternay of Centennial, Colorado
Basil at Its Best
I wondered if it was true that basil grown in the Liguria region of Italy was the best in the world. For over thirty years I heard this from both the herb and culinary communities. I thought it might be just hearsay based on pride in a crop so much a part of the culture. The opportunity to go to Liguria this past June and discover for myself was the fulfillment of a lifetime dream.

Researching the weather of this region it seemed that not all areas of Liguria would be suitable for year round basil growing, as I knew it. The famous Riviera region along the coast would fit the bill with its mild climate but not the inland areas. How could four hundred hectares (988.40 acres) of basil be growing in Liguria?

I was fortunate to have a knowledgeable guide to interpret and answer many of my questions. He took me to visit one of the many small basil farms around Genoa where they grow this prized produce in greenhouses. A greenhouse makes it possible to control ventilation, heat, humidity and light levels. This environment protects from extreme cold in the winter and heat in the summer. These ideal growing conditions also prevent plant pathology, which can quickly devastate a whole crop. Was this the secret to growing a large quantity of basil all year long?

On these family farms there is very little automation. Skilled farmers who know what it takes to maintain an ongoing crop manipulate the growing grounds. It requires eight people per hectare (2.471 acres) to keep the farm up. This farmer explained that he watered every other day but made sure the ground was dry after eight hours, because basil needs good drainage to remain healthy. The ideal temperature for germination is about sixty-five degrees F. Basil grows well in the sun but a little shade will result in tender, aromatic plants. Keeping all these factors in balance is the challenge!

The planting and harvesting are fascinating processes and I believe hold the key to the world famous flavor of Ligurian basil. The soil is neutral and lightweight with calcium and organic material. The greenhouse is planted by hand in raised beds with “ genoese” basil seed. These seeds are planted with pride because the resulting leaves have a “large bouquet” (scent) with no bitter or mint taste. Many basils grown in the USA do have a mint flavor which we are accustomed to.

When some of the plants have attained eight leaves and are about five inches tall the “first pass” is made. This involves hand pulling by workers sitting or lying prone on strategically placed wooden boards across the basil field. These young tender plants including the roots are bundled and sold in bouquet fashion. (see photo). When there are enough plants meeting the specifications there is a “second pass” to pull those. These passes continue until there are few plants left and it is time to reseed. This occurs twice a year and it is at this juncture the fields are sterilized and enriched.

I think it is attention to detail and years of basil farming experience that makes Ligurian basil the “world standard”. Many of these farms were set up in the 1920’s, and they know what it takes to grow superb basil on their piece of land. There is a personal and historical pride in producing the very best basil in the world!

As a long time basil enthusiast I can unequivocally say that the basil I tasted in Liguria was the best I have ever had. The“ larger bouquet” was a term I heard often and it translates to taste. This Ligurian herb has a pronounced basil flavor without bitterness or minty overtones. The reason for this is their sound farming practices but picking only the “ sweet young leaves” is no doubt a factor.

Excerpted from Edna's August 2006 Tehachapi News column.

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